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NO.704B: Modern Vintage's Fast-Paced Little Sister

Q+A with Modern Vintage Designer Jackie Yermus
July 09, 2009
Meredith Erickson

With a degree from McGill and Parsons school of design Jackie Yermus went on to work for Marc Jacobs as an Assistant Shoe designer for a little under three years. After working with some of the industries best and brightest she returned in 2008 to her hometown of Montreal to join the Modern Vintage design team. Here with the creative freedom and input, she and the team are creating original designs founded on artisanal craftsmanship. With Modern Vintage quickly garnering a cult following, the team has created 704b. a fashion forward and fast-paced sister line. Here we sat down with Jackie to talk about her current inspiration, the secrets of a good shoe. And what it’s like working with Marc, bien sur.

Can you explain the difference between your two lines, Modern Vintage and 704b.?
Modern Vintage is the more unique, more experimental line. Here we’re constantly developing more “out of the box” ideas for designs. 704b. is more of a “street” line, more contemporary and more affordable.

What is your inspiration for each of the lines?
For Modern Vintage there is a lot of vintage research involved. I spend a lot of time looking at vintage details (i.e. hardware, construction and shape), whereas for 704b. we’re watching what’s going down the runways and what kids are wearing on the street. We just recently split MV in two, to “Modern” and “Vintage” so some styles are more traditional and artisanal while others are a bit sleeker.

Why do you feel this can fit with the Little Burgundy customer?
I think that Modern Vintage can fit in as a premium line, for people in their 30’s who want a unique, comfortable look. For 704b., its more trendy, cool and “fashion” and overall just more young.

Can you give me your favourite Fall ‘09 shoe from each line?
Modern Vintage - "Eloise" - the perfect ankle boot. 704b. - "Maisie" - day or night, any season, I love this boot!

You worked for Marc Jacobs can you talk a bit about how that informed your experience?
I learned everything there- how and where to research. How to find the best details in a shoe and how to apply that to your brand. Marc is a genius with colour so hopefully a bit of that rubbed off on me. The softness of colour and mixing rich and poor…. I think these juxtapositions are important and that has affected the way I design. I also learned about the business. We were a tiny team and so it was very hands-on. We spent a lot of time in the factories and also in the show room where the shoes are being sold to buyers. All in all it was a great experience.

What’s the secret to running a small successful design business?
Being aware of what is going on design-wise, i.e. knowing what’s going on in New York, Hong Kong, and Antwerp. Just absorbing as much as possible and having your finger on the pulse of international design.

What’s the secret behind a great shoe design?
Proportion, by which I mean the curve of the sole and how it turns into the heel. With the right proportion, it’s possible to make even a small heel look sexy.

What are some of your favourite runway looks for fall?
Marni and Chloe

Which designers do you find most inspiring?
I love Dries Van Noten. I love Miu Miu and Prada and find they pull off sexy looks with a bit of edge. Balenciaga I find inspiring but not wearable. Marni and Martin Margiela I love as well.

When travelling, what are the three pairs of shoes you always pack?
A pair of Havianas (flip flops), motorcycle boots and sexy pumps.